On Saturday 17 July 2010 and for the fifth year running the Arco Rock
Legends will assign two highly coveted awards: the Salewa Rock Award
and the La Sportiva Award. These two authentic sport climbing Oscars
will go to those climbers who most left their mark during the last
climbing season. The 2010 Award includes, once again, five super
climbers nominated for the Salewa Rock Award – the prize which
recognises not only the best performances on single pitch sport climbs
and boulder problems, but also the style of the climbers. While three
super athletes have been nominated for the La Sportiva Competition Award
which goes to the competition climber who distinguished him or herself
most during the last competition season.
The 2010 Award is comprised of an impressive 23 specialised
international climbing magazines and it is they who drew up the list of
nominees. This highly qualified jury has, as always, selected a series
of first-class candidates and choosing the two overall winners will be
no mean task.
The nominations for the Salewa Rock Award 2010
contain two interesting novelties: the extremely strong Frenchwoman
Charlotte Durif and her young (just 15!) and unstoppable compatriot Enzo
Oddo. They are joined by three excellent climbers. Adam Ondra, the 17
-year-old “phenomenon” from the Czech Republic who has conquered the
world – so much so that he won the award in 2008. He is joined by Chris
Sharma – the American better known as the King of climbing –
unsurprisingly the winner in 2009. And last but by no means least there
is Daniel Woods, the American nominated for a second time here in Arco
thanks to an absolutely outstanding climbing season.
Within the trio of athletes nominated for the La Sportiva
Competition Award there is Adam Ondra once again. This double
nomination, for rock and competitions, is a sure sign of his undisputed
class. It has to be said though that the road to final victory will not
be easy as it is barred by two exceptional athletes: Johanna Ernst and
Akiyo Noguchi. This is the second nomination for the Austrian Lead World
Champion and queen of difficulty competitions after her nomination in
2009 while the Japanese climber arrives as dominator, like few others in
the past, of the difficult, beautiful and aleatory Bouldering World
Who will win? We will know more on Saturday 17 July 2010 when the
winners will be announced during the Rock Master competitions which this
year have, quite exceptionally, been moved forward as an enticing
anticipation to the IFSC World Championship scheduled to take place in
Arco in 2011. The 2010 competition will introduce some absolute
novelties such as the Team Speed and more than 200 climbers are expected
in the legendary Climbing Stadium during the three competition days.
The event will be world class and quite rightly so in this particular
The date for world sport climbing is 16,17 and 18 July 2010 in Arco.
WINNERS OF THE ARCO ROCK LEGENDS
Salewa Rock Award - Josune Bereziartu (2006), Patxi
Usobiaga (2007), Adam Ondra (2008), Chris Sharma (2009)
La Sportiva Competition Award - Angela Eiter (2006),
David Lama (2007), Maja Vidmar (2008), Kilian Fischhuber (2009)
INTERNATIONAL JURY 2010
Presidente: Fabrizio Miori
Vice president: Giorgio Balducci (regista RAI)
International magazines: Climax (AUT),
Montana (CZE), Desnivel (ESP), Climb
(GBR), Summit (GBR), Alpin (GER), Klettern
(GER), Rivista del CAI (ITA), Meridiani
Montagne (ITA), ALP (ITA), Pareti
(ITA), UP Climbing (ITA) Rock and Snow
(JPN), Climber (KOR), Gory (POL), Verticalniy
Mir (RUS), SA Mountain Mag (SA), Jamesak
(SLK), Planinski Vestnik (SLO), Rock & Ice
(USA) and the internet sites ukclimbing.com, mountain.ru
SALEWA ROCK AWARD 2010 NOMINATIONS (in alphabetical order)
Period: from June 2009 to May 2010Charlotte
Durif (1990, France)
The young Frenchwoman has accustomed us to her surprisingly difficult
on-sights, this year she surprised the climbing world with her
difficult female first ascents.
Enzo Oddo (1995, France)
One of sport climbing’s rising stars, not only in France but also in the
rest of the world, his 9a’s at 15 years of age indicate that the future
will be made of… extremely hard climbs!
Adam Ondra (1993, Czech Republic)
A handful of 9a+ first ascents, a 9b repeat, achieved between one hard
boulder problem and the next provide only a small indication to the
importance and influence this 17 year old, winner of the 2008 Salewa
Rock Award, has on the vertical world.
Chris Sharma (1981, USA)
After receiving the Award in 2009, Sharma has continued ceaselessly,
developing Oliana almost single-handedly to create the crag of the
future whilst managing to find the time to free his third 9b.
Daniel Woods (1989, USA)
A candidate in 2007, the American excels on boulder problems and at the
crags and in this season his search for the hardest difficulties has
first taken him to Europe, and then the the USA where he has proposed
the world’s first V16.
LA SPORTIVA COMPETITION AWARD 2010 NOMINATIONS (in
Period: competition season 2009
Johanna Ernst (1992, Austria)
A competition season without precedents: Ernst doubled her 2008 takings
by winning the Lead World Cup 2009 and being crowned Lead World
Champion. Unsurprisingly she took home bronze in the Combined result
which considers all three disciplines, Leed, Speed and Bouldering.
Akiyo Noguchi (1989, Japan)
In one of the most aleatory disciplines the Japanese boulderer dominated
totally, winning the Bouldering World Cup 2009 and also the Combined
2009 which considers all three disciplines, Leed, Speed and Bouldering.
Adam Ondra (1993, Czech Republic)
In his debut senior year and at 16 years of age Ondra won both the Lead
World Cup 2009 and the special Combined which considers all three
disciplines, Leed, Speed and Bouldering. To this must be added his
silver medal in the Lead World Championship in Quinghai.